Travel guides Norway Tromsø and Senja
The Complete Guide to Tromsø
Northern Lights, Arctic food, and everything in between
Northern Lights from a mountaintop, a floating sauna, reindeer hot dogs, and way too much coffee. Everything I'd tell a friend before their first trip.
69.65° N 18.96° E
Why Tromsø
Tromsø is my favorite city in the Arctic, and I keep coming back to it every single year. It's small enough to walk end to end, but it has everything: great coffee, Arctic food, a floating sauna in the harbor, mountains in the backyard, sturdy food, and sturdier people.
It's also one of the best places in the world to chase the Aurora. Tromsø sits right under the Aurora oval, and the area around it has so many different microclimates that on most nights, you can drive to where the clouds aren't.
This guide is everything I'd tell a friend before their first trip: what to do, where to eat, what to bring home, and how to see the Northern Lights whether you book a tour or not. Anything marked I've done this is something I've personally done. The rest is on my list, researched so you don't have to.
Before You Go
Best Time to Go
Northern Lights
September to early April
The sky needs to be dark, so the Aurora season runs from late August or September to early April. Around the equinoxes (late September and late March), geomagnetic activity tends to be stronger.
Polar night
Late November to mid-January
The sun never rises above the horizon. You get a few hours of soft blue light at midday and long, dark nights for the Aurora. Additionally, orcas and humpbacks follow the herring into the fjords north of Tromsø, around Skjervøy.
Midnight sun
Late May to late July
The sun never sets. Hike at midnight, kayak in the evening, and forget what time it is. No Northern Lights in summer, though!
My favorite time is late September to early October. The Aurora season has started, the trees are turning gold, and the snow hasn't fully set in, so you can still hike and drive without ice everywhere.
Getting there
Most flights to Tromsø (TOS) connect through Oslo. The airport is only about 10 minutes from the center by taxi and 20 minutes by bus. The Airport Express Bus stops at most central hotels and has space for luggage, and city buses 24, 26, 40, and 42 stop there too.
Getting around
The center is small enough to walk everywhere. For anything farther, use the city buses. Buy tickets in the Svipper app or tap a Visa or Mastercard when you get on (buses don't take cash). You only need a car for day trips out to the fjords.
Money
Norway is about as cashless as it gets. I've never needed cash in Tromsø. It's also expensive, so budget for food and drinks, and use the grocery stores for snacks and trail meals.
Stay warm
Even in early October, temperatures drop to around 0°C / 32°F at night, and it feels colder on the mountain and out on a tour. Layers, a warm hat, and proper gloves make the difference between a great night and a miserable one. My full list is in the Arctic packing list!
The Northern Lights in Tromsø
The Northern Lights aren't rare here. If the sky is dark and clear and there's any activity at all, you'll probably see them. The real question is whether you can get away from the city lights and the clouds.
On a clear night, you don't need a tour. Walk or take the bus to one of the spots below. On a cloudy night, book a chase tour and let the guides find you a gap in the clouds. They know the microclimates way better than any of us.
Nate's Note On my first night in 2024, the sky was completely clear, which is rare. Some of us headed straight up Fjellheisen and got green Auroras visible to the naked eye, even with the city lights below us!
1 / 2The Aurora from the top of Fjellheisen 
2 / 2The whole city lit up below Fjellheisen Photo via Wikimedia Commons
Easy to reach✓ I've done thisFjellheisen
Cable car from the mainland side of the bridge up to Storsteinen, 421 m above the city. It runs until midnight, so you can ride up after dinner and watch the Aurora over the whole city. Bus 26 or a 10-minute taxi.
Prestvannet, with Middagstind on Kvaløya behind it Photo via Wikimedia Commons
Easy to reach✓ I've done thisPrestvannet
A small lake on top of the island, about a 20-minute walk from the center (or buses 28 and 40). Locals walk the loop around it. Some light from the houses around it, but you'll still see the arcs.
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The beach at Telegrafbukta Photo via Wikimedia Commons.jpg)
Easy to reachTelegrafbukta
A beach at the southern tip of the island with views east, south, and west. About 35 minutes on foot, or take bus 33 out and bus 34 back. Darker than town.
1 / 2The Aurora over the boats in the harbor 
2 / 2Right next to Pust on the jetty Easy to reach✓ I've done thisThe harbor and the north jetty
The lowest-effort option. Stand on the waterfront and look across at the Arctic Cathedral and the bridge. More light pollution, but great for photos with the cathedral.
1 / 5Our Chasing Lights van, parked under the Aurora 
2 / 5A rare red Aurora on one of our chases 
3 / 5They lend you a heated suit, which you will want 
4 / 5Hours away from the city lights 
5 / 5Worth every minute in the cold Book a tour✓ I've done thisChasing Lights
Every Aurora tour I've ever booked has been with them, and the guides have become good friends of mine. They drive wherever the sky is clearest, sometimes all the way to Finland, and send you professional photos the next day.
Things to Do in Tromsø
Click a category to filter. Every spot opens in Google Maps.
The Arctic Cathedral lit up at night Sights✓ I've done thisArctic Cathedral
The triangular white church you'll see from everywhere in town, just across the bridge. Finished in 1965, with a huge glass mosaic added in 1972. Walk over the bridge to get there.
Porten til Ishavet, the Gateway to the Arctic Sights✓ I've done thisPorten til Ishavet
The Gateway to the Arctic, a 6 m mosaic arch by Tromsø artist Marit Bockelie at the foot of the bridge. Stand in front of it and the opening frames the Arctic Cathedral. Unveiled in September 2024.
The library and its swooping roof Sights✓ I've done thisTromsø Library
The library with the cool roof! It's built under the curved shell roof of the old Fokus cinema from 1969, with four floors of books and a gallery up top. Free to walk in, warm, and right off Storgata.
The old wooden buildings along Storgata Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Sights✓ I've done thisStorgata and the old wooden houses
The main street through the center, lined with colorful wooden buildings, shops, and cafés. Wander it on your first afternoon to get your bearings.
1 / 4A seal swimming right over me in the underwater tunnel 2 / 4Up close at the seal feeding 
3 / 4Feeding time at the seal pool 
4 / 4A seal swimming right behind me in the underwater tunnel Museums✓ I've done thisPolaria
The Arctic aquarium in the building shaped like ice floes pushed up onto the shore. It has bearded seals, which you won't see up close many other places. Time your visit for a feeding at 10:30, 12:30, or 3:30.
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The Polar Museum in its old customs warehouse Photo via Wikimedia Commons.jpg)
MuseumsPolar Museum
A small museum in an 1830 customs warehouse on the harbor, all about Arctic trapping, hunting, and the polar explorers, with whole rooms on Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen.
- Museums
Tromsø Museum
The university museum, with a permanent exhibition that explains the science behind the Northern Lights and another on Sámi culture and history. About 10 minutes by bus from the center.
1 / 2The whole city lit up below Fjellheisen Photo via Wikimedia Commons
2 / 2The view from the top, with a bonus Aurora Experiences✓ I've done thisFjellheisen and the Sherpa Steps
Ride the cable car up to Storsteinen, or earn the view by climbing the Sherpa Steps, more than 1,200 stone steps built by Sherpas from Nepal. Allow 40 to 60 minutes up. Skip the steps when they're icy.
1 / 2Pust glowing in the harbor at night 
2 / 2Climbing out after the Arctic Ocean plunge Experiences✓ I've done thisSauna Pust
A floating sauna in the harbor. Sweat it out, then jump into the Arctic Ocean from the swim deck, then repeat. Drop-in sessions start around 150 NOK. Bring a swimsuit and two towels.
1 / 4Feeding time at the reindeer camp 
2 / 4Making a new friend 
3 / 4The reindeer roam free around camp 
4 / 4Snowshoeing through the fields they graze in the summer Experiences✓ I've done thisReindeer and Sámi culture
Feed reindeer, sit in a warm lávvu (a traditional Sámi tent), and hear about Sámi life up here. I went in early March, in full snow season, and the highlight was feeding the reindeer and snowshoeing through the fields they graze in the summer. They roam free most of the year and only come back to camp in winter, so visits run from early November to early April. Watch your step, though, because their droppings are everywhere! I booked mine through Chasing Lights.
1 / 4Snowy peaks from the water 
2 / 4Out on the deck under the winter sun 
3 / 4Heading deeper into the fjords 
4 / 4Freezing, but worth it Experiences✓ I've done thisArctic fjord boat tour
A few hours out on the fjords around Tromsø, past mountains and small fishing villages. We saw eagles, an Arctic fox, seals, and even a whale! If you're lucky, you might spot orcas too. I went with Chasing Lights.
Huskies ready to run in the Arctic snow Photo: Fredrik Solli Wandem on Unsplash
ExperiencesDog sledding
Drive your own team of huskies or ride along with a musher. You need snow, so this is a winter activity, roughly December to April.
- Experiences
Whale watching
From November to January, orcas and humpbacks follow the herring into the fjords near Skjervøy, north of Tromsø. Day tours leave from the city.
Prestvannet, with Middagstind on Kvaløya behind it Photo via Wikimedia Commons
Easy nature✓ I've done thisPrestvannet
A lake on top of the island, about 20 minutes on foot from the center. Walk the loop in the day, or come back at night for the Aurora.
The beach at Telegrafbukta Photo via Wikimedia Commons.jpg)
Easy natureTelegrafbukta
A beach and park at the southern tip of the island. Great for a sunset walk, and on summer nights, the midnight sun.
Trails through the Arctic-Alpine Botanic Garden Photo via Wikimedia Commons
Easy natureArctic-Alpine Botanic Garden
The world's northernmost botanical garden, and it's free. Open roughly May to October, depending on the snow.
1 / 4Fresh snow on the peaks of Kvaløya 
2 / 4The whole crew on a white sand beach 
3 / 4A waterfall stop along the way 
4 / 4Autumn colors and the first snow Day trips✓ I've done thisArctic Fjords Road Trip
A guided day out to Kvaløya, the big island west of Tromsø, with fjords, fishing houses, and a campfire lunch. Leaving the driving to someone else is a nice change. I did this with Chasing Lights.
1 / 2Autumn at the end of Ersfjorden 
2 / 2Sunset over the fjord before an Aurora chase Day trips✓ I've done thisErsfjordbotn
A dramatic fjord ringed by sharp peaks, about 30 minutes' drive west on Kvaløya. Easy to add to any drive out of the city.
White sand and turquoise water out by Sommarøy Photo via Wikimedia Commons
Day trips✓ I've done thisSommarøy
White beaches and turquoise water on a tiny island about an hour and a half from the city. Rent a car and pull over every time the view makes you.
1 / 3Segla from the Hesten trail at sunset 
2 / 3The boardwalk at Tungeneset 
3 / 3Morning in Fjordgård Day trips✓ I've done thisSenja
Better as two or three nights than a day trip. Norway in miniature, with fjords, sharp peaks, and fishing villages. See my 9-day Tromsø and Senja itinerary.
Where to Eat in Tromsø
Eating out in Norway is expensive, so I mix it up: cheap and quick for most meals, and one or two proper dinners. When you sit down, order something you can't get at home: reindeer, Arctic char, king crab, or anything with cloudberries.
A reindeer hot dog from Raketten Quick and cheap✓ I've done thisRaketten
A tiny old kiosk on the main square that calls itself Norway's smallest bar, serving hot dogs day and night. Get the reindeer pølse. A Tromsø classic!
My first-night kebab from Good Food Quick and cheap✓ I've done thisGood Food
My late-night kebab. They ask how spicy you want it on a scale up to 10. Even level 8 wasn't spicy for me! Only open late on Friday and Saturday nights.
Reindeer tongue from Arctic Food Lab, eaten by the harbor Quick and cheap✓ I've done thisArctic Food Lab
A little food truck by the harbor serving local food. Great for a quick lunch between activities. I got the reindeer tongue!
Packed and ready for an Aurora chase Quick and cheap✓ I've done thisBurger King on Storgata
My pre-chase move. Pack a burger before an Aurora tour, because you'll be standing in the cold for a while.
Reindeer stew with crispbread at Skirri Sit-down✓ I've done thisRestaurant Skirri
Seasonal Northern Norwegian food in the old Kystens Mathus building on the main square, with big windows over the harbor. Think fish and reindeer done well.
- Sit-down✓ I've done this
Bardus Bistro
One of my favorite dinners in town. Norwegian food with a Mediterranean twist, with moose, reindeer, and crab on the menu. I got the reindeer stew, and you can never go wrong with it. It's one of the most Northern Norwegian dishes you can order. It gets busy, so book a table.
The reindeer steak with red wine gravy Sit-down✓ I've done thisBread & Wine
I loved this place. Up here, reindeer usually comes in a stew, but they serve it as a steak, so you can taste the quality. Leaner than beef, not gamey at all, and amazing with the red wine gravy. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Reindeer stew at Full Steam Sit-down✓ I've done thisFull Steam
Fresh local fish and seafood in an old fish factory, with a small museum on Tromsø's fishing history. Make a reservation.
- Splurge
Mathallen
Modern Arctic food built on local fish and meat, with four-course menus or à la carte and a deli where you can buy local cheese, meat, and fish to take home.
Smoked salmon, trout, whale, and fresh bread from Dragøy Quick and cheap✓ I've done thisDragøy at Kystens Mathus
The seafood counter of Dragøy, a local fish company since 1979, inside Kystens Mathus on the waterfront by Stortorget. Order fish soup, fish and chips, or their fish cakes, or build a board like mine with smoked salmon, trout, and whale. Eat it right there looking out over the sound!
- Splurge
Emma's Drømmekjøkken
Tasting menus that change every week, with optional wine pairings and a view of the cathedral park.
- Splurge
Restaurant Smak
Tromsø's big fine-dining night. Only 7 tables and 22 guests, with a menu built on Arctic ingredients, fermenting, drying, and smoking. Wednesday to Saturday only, and you have to book.
Coffee and Sweets in Tromsø
Tromsø has great coffee. Here's my usual crawl.
- Coffee✓ I've done this
Risø
A favorite with coffee people in Tromsø. Casual, cozy, and they take their coffee seriously.
- Coffee✓ I've done this
Kaffebønna
A solid cup right on the main square.
- Coffee✓ I've done this
Smørtorget
A cozy café that's also a vintage shop, known for open sandwiches and baked goods.
- Coffee✓ I've done this
FINT kafé & bar
Get the bruschetta toast.
- Coffee✓ I've done this
Backstube
Quick, cheap pastries on the main street. My go-to before an early tour.
My go-to crêpe Sweets✓ I've done thisNordens Paris Crêperie
A crêpe stand in the center. My go-to order is the Fly Me to the Moon, banana and Nutella!
Where to Drink in Tromsø
Alcohol is expensive in Norway, and stronger wine and spirits are only sold at the state-run Vinmonopolet shops, which have short hours and close early on Saturdays. Plan ahead if you want a bottle for the cabin.
Souvenirs to Buy in Tromsø
Skip the magnets. These are the things I'd actually bring home from Tromsø. Most of them you'll find along Storgata, in the gift shops in the center, or at the grocery store.
If you're buying Sámi handicraft (called duodji), look for the maker's name and the Duodji label. That's how you know it was made by a Sámi artisan, not mass-produced.
A classic Norwegian wool sweater Wear itNorwegian wool
Wool hats, mittens, and socks are easy to pack and actually useful up here. Go for a full sweater if you want the classic Norwegian look.
1 / 3Sámi knives with reindeer antler and birch handles 
2 / 3Pewter and leather jewelry 
3 / 3Carved birch cups (kuksa), and a few plush reindeer Wear itSámi handicraft (duodji)
Knives, cups carved from birch burl, silver jewelry, and reindeer leatherwork. Look for the Duodji label and the maker's name.
- Eat it
Brunost and cloudberry jam
The sweet brown goat cheese Norwegians put on everything, plus cloudberry jam. Add a cheese slicer and you have the classic Norwegian gift set.
Real Turmat for dinner, with the Aurora for dessert Eat itReal Turmat
Freeze-dried trail meals made right here in Tromsø. Just add hot water. Perfect for your next hike at home.
- Drink it
Mack beer
Tromsø's own brewery. Pick up a few cans, or something from the Mack shop next to Ølhallen.
Reindeer hides as seats for a campfire lunch by the fjord DecorReindeer hides and antlers
Traditional, but check your home country's import rules before you buy, and ask the shop where it came from.
Rainy Day Plan for Tromsø
The weather up here changes fast, so have a backup. Start with coffee at Risø, then spend the late morning at Polaria for the seal feeding at 12:30. Walk over to the Polar Museum on the harbor after lunch, then warm up in the Tromsø Library under that roof.
Finish with a sauna session at Sauna Pust. It doesn't matter if it's raining when you're about to jump into the ocean anyway!
Where to Stay
Stay in the center, on the island. Everything in this guide is walkable from there, and almost every tour picks up nearby. You only need a car for day trips.
I've stayed here for the past 4 visits and it has never let down my expectations; simple, central, and cheap (by Norway standards). Storgata, the harbor, and the tour pickups at the Prostneset bus terminal are all a 5-minute walk away.
What to Book
| What | When to book | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Chasing Lights Northern Lights chase | 2 to 4 weeks ahead | Thermal suits are included on minibus chases. I highly recommend booking more than one night because the aurora looks different every night! |
| Chasing Lights reindeer visit, fjord boat tour, and Arctic Fjords Road Trip | 2 to 4 weeks ahead | Daytime tours, so you can pair them with an Aurora chase the same night. |
| Sauna Pust | A day or two ahead | Drop-in from about 150 NOK. Bring a swimsuit and two towels. |
| Bread & Wine | A few days ahead | They have great reindeer steak! |
| Restaurant Smak | As early as you can | Only 22 seats, open Wednesday to Saturday. |
| Fjellheisen cable car | No need to book | Buy tickets at the station or online. It runs until midnight. |
Want the day-by-day?
My full itinerary, with Tromsø, Senja, and an Aurora chase every night.
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